This was our frequent Google search in Ireland. It did not disappoint. Up the coastline from Dublin there was another winner in the Shoreline Hotel. I would so stay here next time, the views were magnificent, as was the food. We went back twice, because this Seafood Chowder and this Fish and Chips may be the best we tried. Shorelinehotel.ie in Donabate. North of Dublin.
We ended up taking the train down to a southern suburb of Dublin, where Nuala and Stephen awaited us. They live in Dún Laoghaire (Dun Leary is how we pronounce this). Which is also home to Bono. The Wicklow Mountains are a National Park, and we had regretted not stopping for a visit when we drove by them from Cork. Lucky us, Nuala and Stephen drove us up to the highest pub in Ireland, in the middle of the mountains! Johnnie Fox's. So we got another fish and chips, more lamb in a stew, and a delicious Guinness Beef Pie. And great company. It's a lovely little mountain range, good company, and even a flat tire didn't dampen our spirits on the rainiest day we were there.
Nuala also schooled us on how to drink a Guinness (they had the non alcoholic everywhere, as well, unless sold out). "First, you let it sit, then when you drink the first drink, bring it down to the label on the glass (about 2 fingers). Then sip the rest slowly." We ended at a nice, local pub near their mechanic to get their tire changed out. The fix a flat got us down the mountain in a rainstorm just fine!
The next day, we went up the coast towards Dublin and googled "best seafood restaurant with a view" on our way back to the Airbnb. In Bray, we found Butler and Barry met the brief. But first, a delicious Affogato with homemade Italian Gelato to tide us over. And a lovely rock from the seashore while we walked about until the restaurant opened. https://ginosgelato.com/
ButlerandBarry.com doesn't seem to work from my US computer, but that is the website, and they are worth a stop, just for the glazed pork belly bites, with a honey and sesame topping and a coca cola reduction. OMG, maybe the best bite of the trip. Then a hop over to a coffee shop before heading back to the Airbnb.
We debated how long to stay in other places, given our Airbnb was for the full two weeks. So even though the country was small, we stayed two nights elsewhere. We scooted over to Galway, a lovely seaside town I would visit again, and our ongoing mission to find the best chowder and fish and chips continued. They have a lively main street and every town was dressed for the holidays, so night time was magical.
We left Galway and stayed just outside of town at the Lady Gregory in Gort, Ireland. https://www.ladygregoryhotel.ie/us-visitors/. Such a welcome respite! Lovely stairs, a very staid and decorated establishment, and Richard finished the night off with a steak from their restaurant. They have an indoor pool as well, but we brought no suits. In our three, almost four hours of driving that day, we saw numerous sheep on a hill, but only Richard spied the lone "black faced" sheep. It's ok, I bought a stuffed one for Benji at Malahide:)
After leaving Lady Gregory we headed to Cork! There are two things you must have, ok, three, if in Ireland. Ok, four. A full Irish breakfast, a Guiness Steak Pie, a Lamb Shank, and Fish and Chips. They do all of these things equally well. It's hard to pick a favorite.
In Cork, we found a Mediterranean restaurant that served "the best" lamb shank in town. Orso Kitchen and Bar. https://www.orso.ie/ Then we wandered over to the indoor food emporium known as "The English Market." But on the way, we were passed by a pretty large demonstration against the horrific crimes in Gaza. It's a very big deal in Ireland and genocide is frowned upon. The US needs to stop arming Israel.
I would love to visit Ireland again, stay in Cork, and drive the Ring of Kerry and visit Dingle. Next time!
Then it was onto Waterford and day one of their Christmas Market. We tried battered sausage on a stick (very good) and just missed the parade and fireworks, which were at 5:30, just as we checked into our hotel. Avoid the Travelodge in Waterford, very dicey. Heat is timed to go off every two hours, and the place is locked up like a prison. Nice receptionist, but no thanks. We were lucky to get any room, as it was the first night of the Christmas Market. Grateful for the bed.
We had a great time wandering the market, which was more a combination of a fair and Christmas Market. There were a small amount of booths set up with goods, and a lot of street vendors with foods. The video below shows a hanging grill over a wood fire with sausages. Too crowded for us, so we bought the battered sausages from a chippie shop down the way. We did not buy their other offering, a Czech pastry rolled onto a wooden dowel and cooked over flame. But I got the photo:)
